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Ecuador's Amazon: Cuyabeno, Yasuní or Tena?

Lagoons, a great park, or a river town. The gate you use is part of the warning.

October 9, 2026 · 3 minute read · Last checked: October 2026

A blue-throated piping guan in Yasuní National Park
Photograph by Geoff Gallice from Gainesville, FL, USA, CC BY 2.0.
In this chapter
  1. A way to decide

The Amazon chapter is the overview. This page is the choice. All three are east of the Andes. They are not the same drive, and they are not the same advisory.

Cuyabeno

A reserve of blackwater lagoons. Canoes, monkeys, caimans, and, with luck, river dolphins. Trips are a few nights. The road in is through Lago Agrio, in Sucumbíos. The US advisory says to reconsider travel to that province. The UK says Lago Agrio is inside the 20-kilometer border zone where it advises against all but essential travel, and it tells people going to Cuyabeno to use a reputable guide, move in daylight, and keep a way to communicate.

Yasuní

The large park, reached from Coca on the Napo. Lodges and community camps. You do not wander off the program. The forest sits on petroleum reserves that have been argued over for years. Orellana is not on the US Do Not Travel list. It is on the CDC’s list for yellow fever vaccine and for malaria prevention medicine, below 1,500 meters. Read the longer chapter before you treat a lodge photo as a plan.

Tena

A river town closer to the mountains, on the upper Napo. Rafting and a shorter stay. Jungle-edge, not the deep reserve. Napo province is on the CDC’s yellow-fever recommendation for land below 2,300 meters. It is not one of the provinces where the CDC recommends malaria pills. The CDC still notes rare malaria below 1,500 meters elsewhere, and says bite precautions. Baños is where many people sleep before the road east.

A way to decide

  1. If the border warning is a noDo not build the trip through Lago Agrio. That removes the usual Cuyabeno approach. Read the safety chapter again on the week you book.
  2. If you want the forest and a lodgeYasuní, or another Napo lodge, with a naturalist and the nights the operator sells. A day trip is a boat ride with a slogan.
  3. If you have three daysTena, and a honest sense that you are at the edge. It is the wrong promise if the goal is a silent lake at dawn.

See a travel clinic a month out. The CDC’s yellow-fever row was updated July 9, 2025, and its malaria row April 23, 2025. Quito and the Galápagos are outside that yellow-fever recommendation. The Oriente is not. The entry chapter separates “required to enter the country” from “recommended for this province.”

Sources: US State Department advisory · FCDO, regional risks · CDC, Ecuador. Place descriptions match the Amazon chapter. Rewritten here.

Plan your trip

A lodge week, not a day trip

A short, practical list. Nothing here is required.

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